From the first steps of your offspring to the biggest four-pet run marathons, birthday parties or movie nights, the floor is the part of the living space where you live. Although the right choice of flooring is a long-lasting thing, it should at least be “refreshed” after a long period of use.
In previous blog posts, we have already talked about wood patio flooring, extremely low maintenance PVC flooring, and about floor types based on your lifestyle. Well, in this blog post, we’ll talk about wood interior floors and their renovation. How to prepare for their coloring and enjoy a good result? Sometimes it will be enough just to pick the right paint and to designate a free afternoon to repaint the floor.
Most importantly, make the right choice of paint. You can paint the floor with water-based acrylic or epoxy paint. Carefully evaluate the type of paint you choose: Acrylic paint, for example, is ideally suited for the bedroom, but not for the hallway as it is very common to walk there.
Pay attention to floor-specific paints, which are produced by many manufacturers. Typically, this paint has higher abrasion resistance.
Also important nuance – matte or shiny? Mud gets more sticky with matt, but scratches are more visible on glossy paint.
Once you have chosen the paint – sand it. For this purpose, medium rough sandpaper is suitable. True, if you are repainting old wooden floors, look closely at them for nails that have fallen out and so on.
After sanding the floor, thoroughly vacuum the room and cover areas that may be soiled during painting. Protect skirting boards and other parts with paint strips.
Start painting from the far corner toward the door.
Apply a second coat only after the time specified by the manufacturer (this is usually written on the packaging).
For the second coat, use new or thoroughly washed paint tools.
Walking on a freshly painted floor is only possible when the paint is completely dry.
Not all surfaces can be painted, but most flooring surfaces can be painted. Overall, floor painting is not a very difficult finishing job. The key is to prepare him properly. In this article, we will discuss in more detail how to paint wooden floors.
Two tasks are essential when painting a floor – choosing the right paint and doing a good job of sanding the floor. How the floor is painted (brush or roller) is dictated by the texture of the floor. The roller is easier to paint, but the brush can better cover uneven surfaces.
Choice of paint
The floor can be painted with water-based acrylic paint or epoxy paint. Which paint is best used for this job is determined by the materiality of the flooring and the intensity of use. For example, although acrylic paint is suitable for floor painting, it is not recommended to paint the floor of the corridor, because it is often walked there. Some manufacturers produce special floor paints that are more resistant to intensive abrasion.
It is also important to consider the finish of the paint – whether it is a matte finish or glossy paint. The matt paint is more sticky to the dirt, on the other hand, the surface covered with the gloss paint has more visibility to the scratches.
For floor painting you will need:
- Floor sanding machines;
- Painting tape and newspaper cover;
- Clothing for dyeing;
- Paint and paint baths;
- Brushes and rollers.
If you are painting old wooden floors, look carefully at the nails that may damage the sander before you start sanding. For sanding, it is advisable to use medium rough sandpaper. It should be used to evenly sand the entire surface of the floor.
A larger floor surface is best sanded with an orbital sander, and edges are advised to use a hand sander.
After sanding the floor, it must be thoroughly vacuumed to remove all wood dust. Then cover areas that may be smeared during painting with the tape and newspaper.
The painting should start from the corner furthest from the exit. A second coat can only be applied after the paint manufacturer has specified the time interval between the application. For the second painting, it is recommended to use cleanly washed or new painting tools (brushes, roller).
Walking on a painted floor is only possible when the paint is completely dry. Acrylic paints may require 24 hours and epoxy paints may take up to 5 days.
Experienced painters seem to agree that painting walls will take three-quarters of their time to prepare. This is not a matter of accident for the substrate – once it has accumulated or swelled, the paint can only accentuate the roughness and the surface may start to crumble or bounce. What steps to take and who to focus on.
If the walls have been previously painted, you may need to remove the former coat of paint. True, it depends on the type of paint and its quality. If the paint adheres well to the wall, it is not necessary to clean it. On the other hand, the surface must always be cleaned of any dirt that prevents further coatings of paint or primer from sticking.
The walls of residential or office buildings are often painted with water-based paint. In this case, clean the walls clean with dirt or grease. Some types of paint are less “friendly” to new coatings. “If you are going to paint an old staircase that used to be oil painted, you should clean it. Oil-alkyd paints are non-breathable and have poor adhesion. Chemical agents, special paint softeners to cover the surface, may be used. After a while, the paint softens and can be scraped off with a spatula. However, one of the simplest tools is a simple sanding of the surface. Only glossy surfaces are required for spitting.
If your room has been renovated a very long time ago and you are not sure what paint the walls are painted on, you can take a few tests to help determine the condition of the coating. “You need to dampen a small area of the wall and see if the paint overheats. If they absorb water, they are well visible – the paint has to change color and darken. In this case, either blocking primers will have to be used or it is best to remove such paint.
In the past, the walls used chalk or water emulsion paints that were low in a binder. To check how old paint “sticks” to the wall, the interviewer suggests the following test. “Take the painter’s tape, stick it on the wall, leave it on for a day, then peel it off with a sudden motion. If there is no paint left when you peel it off, you can remove dust and repaint the surface. If there is a need to level the walls, a primer can be used under the putty. If there is no such need, you can simply paint on the top.
Before painting, priming or painting, be sure to inspect the walls thoroughly for mold. If mold is one of the reasons you refurbish your walls, remember that it is not enough to remove it mechanically – without action to reduce humidity and improve indoor ventilation, the mold will eventually return.
Although the wall is usually primed just before painting, it is possible to primer the wall as required and also before the application. The primary purpose of the primer is to equalize the absorbency of the surface. “If the surface is porous or has been plastered with lime, applying moisture or paint to the surface causes the moisture to enter the substrate, allowing the new layer to dry but unable to harden and stick. It all depends on the surface as it is. Next time, it is not even necessary to primer before painting.
In old-fashioned homes, the walls are often extremely uneven. Very large unevennesses are smoothed by plastering, smaller unevennesses and various abrasions, scratches, porous surface of the plaster and other things with putty. The putty may be dry, you will need to prepare it yourself, or it will be ready for use.
There is no need to scrub the plaster on the plaster. Apply as many coats as necessary to achieve the desired wall smoothness, usually up to 4 times. When the putty dries, it is sanded with a fine grid. A considerable amount of dust builds up during this process. Dust should be removed by wet cleaning with water and a sponge, frequently rinsing. However, keep in mind that it should be slightly drained, otherwise you risk losing some of the putty. The main purpose of such a process is to collect dust. “A common mistake is to use a deep primer to bind the dust. If you want the preparation surface to be clean, it is best to clean it with a damp sponge, not deep soils, when unnecessary material is added and labor costs rise. ”
Primers trap residual dust, but in this case, this process would leave a porridge-like surface on the walls, which is not the best option before painting.
If the surface you are painting on is evenly absorbed, or if you have a latex or polymer coating, you may not need a primer – you can apply it immediately. Otherwise, primer. The primary purpose of priming is to ensure that the paint adheres well to the walls, which determines the quality of the primer. Priming can be done by brush or roller. When the primer dries, you are ready to paint, but this is a case where you are incredibly successful. Priming usually also shows defects and will almost inevitably require repair. The standard paint serves only a decorative function, so the installation of the undercoats requires high quality.
When choosing primers, you will certainly find a group called deep soils. Their joints are very fine grains, so they easily absorb into the porous wall substrate, consolidate bulky surfaces and evenly absorb the wall. In addition to submersibles, primers can be reinforcing. Such primers reinforce the top layer of the wall. True, specific primers may still have their own requirements. “The subsoil comes with an instruction book that tells you what paint to paint on.
Specific tools will be needed
- brushes: radiators flat narrow and wide curved,
- dyeing polyethylene film,
- narrow and wide strip of paper,
- narrow and wide filler,
- triangular scraper, scraper with roller seat
- plastic bucket,
- roller vessel or grill,
- large and wide, small and narrow roller (s),
- large and small, plain and cross screwdriver,
- paint mixer,
- handle and grid or sandpaper or sanding sponge for sanding,
- silicone gun,
- mixer drill,
- painting ladder.
WHO NEEDS THESE TOOLS?
Small brush – for hard-to-reach areas, areas near windows, door frames and
more. to paint.
Large brush – for painting corners and larger surfaces.
Radiator Curved Brush – For painting areas behind radiators or radiators.
Polyethylene painting film – designed to cover floors, furniture, to protect them from paint contamination, the film is not expensive and saves a lot of time in handling.
Narrow and wide paper tape – glued to skirting boards and window and door frames, electrical sockets, switches, lamps and any element that can be accidentally applied with paint; it is also used to paint walls (ceilings) of different colors to distinguish one color from another.
Narrow and wide trowel for smoothing wall defects and cracks; a narrow metal putty can be used to remove weakly adhering layers of paint from the wall and to remove paint that dries during handling.
Triangular scraper with roller space – used to remove weakly adhering layers of paint from the wall and to remove paint residue from floors, windowsills and other places, including a narrow spatula.
A plastic bucket can be from previous paint – it will be necessary when preparing putty or gypsum to seal defects and cracks in the walls or when preparing a mixture of water and cleaning agents to wash the walls.
The dish is designed to evenly coat the roller with paint and is very convenient and practical to use, better than the grate on the bucket, because not every bucket can fit the grille and roller.
Roller – quickly, easily and evenly over large areas of the wall.
Screwdrivers – These may be needed when unscrewing (screwing) electrical outlets (switches).
Paint Mixer – All paints must be thoroughly mixed with a flat wooden mixer before use, this can be done accurately and without staining.
Silicone Pistol – For interior repainting, all very unaesthetic cracks on skirting boards or door frames can be filled with acrylic paint SILAKRYL.
Abrasive sandpaper, sandpaper, grab handle or sanding sponge – when painting, very often it is necessary to cover defects or cracks in the walls and to apply (dry) the surface with sandpaper, paper or sand sponge.
Silicone gun – Painting can be used to repair non-aesthetic cracks in skirting boards or door frames using acrylic mass SilAcryl. It is sold in tubes that are dispensed specifically with a silicone gun.
Putty mixer – Before using the bulk putty compound, the putty should be thoroughly mixed with water to smooth out defects and smooth the walls, the easiest and most accurate way to do this is with an electric putty mixer.
Painting ladders – aluminum (lightweight but more expensive) or metal (heavier, though less expensive) are a considerable expense but will essentially serve every household for many years of work.